Ghanian slave castles: Where beauty and brutality co-exist

Elmina, GHANA - It is truly stunning to look out into the Atlantic Ocean and see the beauty of the beach and waves along the coastline of this Ghanian fishing town, and then listening to them crash onto the shores below the Elmina Slave Castle.

But if you close your eyes, you can also hear the banging of chains and the rustling of the feet of slaves - bunched in groups of 400 women and 600 men - as they are held in dark, small, cramped and poorly ventilated spaces, not knowing whether they will survive this horrible ordeal and return to their tribes in this West African nation (The photo to the left is that of the "Door of No Return" at the Elmina Castle).

It's hard to fathom how such unbelievable brutality, and breathtaking beauty, could co-exist.

After venturing out from Accra early this morning on a three-hour ride, we arrived in Elmina to tour the Elmina Slave Castle, initially built by the Portugese. Our knowledgeable guide, Phillip, provided riveting, and often sad, testimony to the horrors of the Trans-Atlantic Slave Trade, showing us the places where women were separated from men; a spot where a woman who refused to be raped by her captors was held in a ball and chain with no food until she submitted; and the holding cell where male slaves were sent to be broken of their will (Photo is of our guide, Phillip, inside one of the male dungeons at the Elmina Castle).

And of course, nothing signifies the finality of the slaves the “Door of No Return,” the sliver in a stone wall or an actual door where African slaves had to crouch low to the ground as they were ushered through one by one, checked off on a sheet of paper like cattle, never to see the Motherland again.

As a descendant of Africans – I’ve traced my DNA on my mom’s side to individuals in Senegal, Guinea-Bissau and Sierra Leone – it was difficult to walk through these dark and dank dungeons, imagining hundreds of men and women packed in these rooms, forced to urinate in corners of a room; having to lay beside a weak or dead comrade; forced to endure unspeakable brutality (Photo: Canons point out to the Atlantic Ocean from the Cape Coast Castle).

This was no video or history book lesson, which allows us to learn in theory, all in the relative comfort of a classroom or home. Standing here, I could still smell the stench that is locked in the rocks, and stand on the same spot where men, women and children died.

Did I get emotional and weep? No. I spent most of the time taking pictures and shooting video, which always allows me to remove myself emotionally from any situation. My focus was to record as much as I can so I can take the images back and show my nine nieces, four nephews, family and friends, so they could witness via my trip the reality of the most devious and diabolical act committed against mankind (Photo shows actual chains used on slaves as presented in the Cape Coast Castle Museum).

But what I witnessed with my own eyes will not be forgotten as long as I remain on this earth.

Phillip said estimates suggest that a total of 60 million African came through such castles, with 40 million dying in the castles or on ships, their lifeless bodies thrown into the sea without the dignity of a proper burial.

One of the more stunning things we witness at Elmina and Cape Coast Castle was the fact that churches were built right above the slave dungeons, allowing the Portugese, British and Dutch – it all depended on who had taken over the castle at that time – to praise and worship Jesus Christ. The Portugese started off with the mission introducing Christ to the Ghanaians. Instead, all they really got was evil incarnate.

People of every race, creed, religion and sex should not assign these world landmarks to just old dilapidated buildings that don’t require our time or attention. This is OUR history – not just African American or African, but Caribbean, European and Asian.

It must be recognized that the world benefited from the horrible slave trade. African who sold their own received gun powder, liquor and other bartered items; nations like the United States were built into the superpower it is today; fortunes were made all over in European capitals; and its after effects – colonialism and Jim Crow in Africa and the United States, respectively – continued what was started more than 600 years ago.

I’ll end this with a statement inscribed in stone on the walls of both castles, which aptly describes what we all should do: “In everlasting memory of the anguish of our ancestors. May those who died rest in peace. May those who return find their roots. May humanity never again perpetrate such injustice against humanity.

“We the living vow to uphold this.”

Comments

[nic]

i don't even know what to say. Thanks for sharing this with us.

[Jann]

Brother Roland,
Thank you for being so giving and for sharing your eyes, ears and heart. I look forward to reading your notes and seeing the pictures you send from Ghana. Ya'll be careful!

[JEM]

Today's posting is absolutely wonderful. I can feel the beauty and the horror through your pictures.

God Bless

[HUGgy bear, GOD's Leading Lady]

"A People without the KNOWLEDGE of their PAST HISTORY, ORIGIN and CULTURE is like A Tree without ROOTS."

I pray that the 'BLACK-MAN' will soon rediscover his CREATOR, The ALMIGHTY GOD. May the 'BLACK-MAN' never, never, ever again serve another god for the things of this wicked world. May he forever and ever LOVE ALMIGHTY GOD with all his heart, with all his soul and with all his mind. In the name of CHRIST Jesus I pray. Amen.

[J.Allen]

Great Work,

Thug Life started in America in 1619 caused by the EVIL of Slavery. Those who claim to serve God are the one's who kill and enslave others because they some how think their RELIGION condones their EVIL DEEDS.

The Black-man does not need to REDISCOVER God as his CREATOR, for RELIGION was used to enslave and destroy. The Black Race must say like the Jews "Never Again"!!!

http://community.myfoxchicago.com/blogs/JimAllen

[GreenLadyHere:]

I join with the others in THANKING YOU and the MRS. :>)

God Bless You 2.

[kojo]

l'm from Ghana and actually went to high school around the areas where the slave castles are, anytime l visit them l couldn't help but envision myself in those thick walled dungeons with a little window sharing it with hundreds of people....
the pile of centuries year old blood remains...
the shackles and the pictures....
lt really hard, it sort of tranforms you

[Darlean]

Thank you Roland,
In 1995 I took my then 13 year old grandaughter to Cape Coast Castle and Elmina Castle. I must say of all the money that I have spent on her education,that was the most benefitial in her life. She tell me all tne time how much she appreciate it. She is now 21 years old. We couldn't believe Man's Inhumanity To Man.BUT let's not get too comfortable. Last week I was at Mackinac Island in upper Michigan and saw slavery at it's best. All of the waiters was from the island of Jamaca...They ger about 4 hours of sleep per night.

[Super Mugu Yaro]

And Super Mugu Yaro wept...

Ro, you have been making my day anytime I read your Ghana reportage, but this time you made me weep and thank you so much for such a first class article. Keep it Up!
One thing we should not forget, is slavery is still going on in this modern World which I term, Modern Slavery. Just go to Dubai or any of the rich developing Countries, and you will see it live and coloured.

Mr.& Mrs. Roland Martin,May the Lord make His face shine upon you and your family now and forever more.

[Kimberly Coleman]

Great job on the posts Roland I am enjoying them. Be safe and have a safe trip back.

Kim

[NN]

Roland,

Your words and your honest, raw emotions are more powerful than the pictures. I think you will be great in a leadership role. May God take you to places and give you experiences like these because sometimes you speak for an entire community. And when you do, you speak well and with truth and without an agenda for self promotion unlike so many 'leaders' who disappoint saying one thing in private and another in public. God bless you Roland. May you grow from strength to strength.

[Informed and enlighted]

My daughter bought me back some of the dirt from the slave castles and I display it in my home proudly.

[Divachef]

"But what I witnessed with my own eyes will not be forgotten as long as I remain on this earth"...I felt the same way and still feel the same way after travelling to the castles...that was almost 14 years ago, and I am ready to go back home...

[KITA]

THANK-YOU SO VERY MUCH FOR BEING SO IMFORMATIVE AND PROFESSIONAL WITH YOUR PERSONAL VISITS.BECAUSE OF WHAT OUR AFRIKAAN ANCESTORS WENT THROUGH,WE SHOULD BE A STRONG AND DYNAMIT RACE OF PEOPLE.WE`RE GETTING THERE,BUT MUST CONTINUE TO FIGHT AGAINST THE SELF HATE THAT WAS PUT UPON US BY THOSE INVOLVED IN THE TRADING OF HUMANS,WE AS A RACE OF PEOPLE`MUST CONVINCE THOSE THAT ARE INVOLVED IN BLACK ON BLACK CRIMES THAT THIS IS A PART OF THAT SELH HATE THAT WE HAVE BEEN AFFLICTED WITH AND MUST DISCONTINUE,FOR THE SAKE OF THE MILLIONS OF AFRIKAANS WHO PERISHED ALONG THE WAY......GOD BLESS YOU........MORE,PLEASE(WRITE A BOOK OR TWO)

[KITA]

THANK-YOU SO VERY MUCH FOR BEING SO IMFORMATIVE AND PROFESSIONAL WITH YOUR PERSONAL VISITS.BECAUSE OF WHAT OUR AFRIKAAN ANCESTORS WENT THROUGH,WE SHOULD BE A STRONG AND DYNAMIT RACE OF PEOPLE.WE`RE GETTING THERE,BUT MUST CONTINUE TO FIGHT AGAINST THE SELF HATE THAT WAS PUT UPON US BY THOSE INVOLVED IN THE TRADING OF HUMANS,WE AS A RACE OF PEOPLE`MUST CONVINCE THOSE THAT ARE INVOLVED IN BLACK ON BLACK CRIMES THAT THIS IS A PART OF THAT SELH HATE THAT WE HAVE BEEN AFFLICTED WITH AND MUST DISCONTINUE,FOR THE SAKE OF THE MILLIONS OF AFRIKAANS WHO PERISHED ALONG THE WAY......GOD BLESS YOU........MORE,PLEASE(WRITE A BOOK OR TWO)

[peaceandlove]

I too was in the slave dungeons not castles in Elmena 1998. That experience at the "door of no return" helped me with my humanity as an African American more than any other. At that brief moment in time I was able to feel the pain, fears, hopes and dreams of the men and women who were forced to go through the dungeons out to the ships to travel the middle passage to the new world - American. If I rejected America as I previously had before my pilgrimage to Ghana, I would be rejecting the experiences of the ancestors who was forced through the indignities of the slave trade. I suddenly felt more of an American - entitled to all the rights, and privileges that bestows each citizens. As the stolen African had paid the admission for my right to exists by their blood, sweat, tears and deaths. I returned from my trip to Ghana as a complete/whole woman with a strong will and the ability to conquer all levels challenges every since - It continues to be the highlight of my life. I encourage all folk of African ancestry to make the piligrimage to the Continent at least once in your life.

[Loma Smith]

I was blessed to vist ghana and the elmina slave castle in 2004,and i cried like a baby. After many years to still feels the souls of our people and to learn and hear of the many yes many diabolical acts committed, i truley came back a changed woman.

[Mary S. Jones]

Roland, you took me back a year. I walked that same path when I visited Ghana, to open the Grace and Mary Vocational School. You words described my feelings and thoughts on point. When I tell friends and family of my expreience they would sit in ah of the degrading conditions of our ancestors. The door of no return was the final straw for me. To walk out and see the coast line and beautiful water that had taken the lives of so many innocent people; yet is show the strength of those who survived that I, we; could share with generations to come.

Thank you so much, Brother for sharing.

[Veronica]

Roland, your recollection of the visit to the slave castle mirrors exactly what Sandra J. described to me on her first visit. The smell, the aura, the feeling that you can almost see your ancestors, marched and crammed into these dungeons. I plan to make my first trip later this year and as painful as this may be, visiting Elmina is something I must do.

Thank you for sharing this.

[Rion]

Roland,

I'm an American and I was at the slave castles (Elmina and Cape Coast) around the same time you were. I think we had similar experiences. It was very moving and emotional, but ultimately uplifting as it helped me to realize that my ancestors were perhaps the strongest people in history. We survived the worst conditions ever. I wish black folks worldwide would reflect on that daily. It was hard to put my experiences into words. I did weep and get emotional, right at the door of no return. Though I find your post to be generally moving and truthful, I will take offense at one paragraph:

"It must be recognized that the world benefited from the horrible slave trade. African who sold their own received gun powder, liquor and other bartered items; nations like the United States were built into the superpower it is today; fortunes were made all over in European capitals; and its after effects – colonialism and Jim Crow in Africa and the United States, respectively – continued what was started more than 600 years ago."

With the long sentence, I find it difficult to pull out meaning from this paragraph. Are you saying that Jim Crow and colonialism (and by extension the slave trade) were some sort of necessary evils? If so, this is a very backwards and western way of looking at things. The "benefits" of the slave trade are tempered by the horrible costs. Africans did get access to European technology, but they then used that technology against each other. The liquor that Europeans brought turned many into alcoholics. And let's not forget the great human costs. Millions dead over a period of 400 years! 40 million more taken as slaves! Potential scientists, innovators, geniuses, thinkers, artists, workers. The slave trade (and by extension colonialism) is the reason the continent is mired in instability. These criminals fucked up a whole continent and there is not really an end in sight right now. There will be an end, but maybe not in our lifetime. And on top of that no "African" ever sold his own. There was no such thing as an "African" back then. These people were separate tribes or nations like the Native Americans. They never conceived of themselves as the same people simply because they shared a land mass. "Africans" sold people from other tribes. Prisoners of war and the like (as my tour guide took pains to point out). This doesn't absolve the African traders of their role in this crime, but it does offer a bit of an explanation. These tribes were civilizations and all of a sudden they are turned into developing nations! People did get rich all over Europe and the Western world, but Africans haven't shared in that. The colonialists are still getting rich off Africa's resources. We have no idea what these kidnapped people would have come up with had this crime not been committed against them. Perhaps it would have been a better world.

[Avembe]

Rion
I think that what Roland means is that..western countries(from Europe,USA Canada Australia) have convinced their white citizens that their power and wealth are only due to their own skills, genius…and that is absolutely NOT true or at least , they did use these skills to kill ,rape, humiliate and STEAL EVERYTHING they could (they still do it but differently)…Did you know that during these hard timesof slave trade they experimented EVERY KIND of violence that a human mind is able to create ,EVERY !!!They tried some to eradicate the Native Americans then they came to try it in Africa and vice versa..It is also said that many (mass)killing strategies used in Europe during the first world war(and the 2nd WW) were used firstly in Africa…remember that the first genocide of the twentieth century was against the Herero in Namibia by …the Germans…
I would also say that the system of kidnapping in Africa started with the Portugueses who obliged any captive(that they firstly brought in Portugal ) to kidnap 4 guys in order to buy an"d recover his own freedom that was the beginning of a catastrophic "deal…
There are many kingdoms in order to have guns to protect themselves that
Organized wars in order to supply enough prisoners that would allow them to buy some military arsenal(that was very often damaged of course..)
May i suggest( sorry i’m french speaking so my english is…) a book written by Louise MAES DIOP…This book is FUNDAMENTAL (to my view) it’s VERY VERY VERY VERY long BUT it’s DEFINITELY a book ANY black of any place in the world should read…That woman IS a REAL, committed scientist she works on FACTS and though the facts are terrible what she says is capital ‘cause it entlightens so many issues so important to us(she’s the widow of the late great Cheikh ANTA DIOP)

[Avembe]

Louise Marie Diop-Maes is a human geographer and author of Afrique noire, démographie, sol et histoire, Présence Africaine/ Khepera, Dakar-Paris, 1996
Euh sorry about the kidnapping part the Portugueses didn't invent that of course but i was referring to the "coining" of the freedom they "offered" to slaves

[HUGgy bear, GOD's Leading Lady]

Rion:
I agree with you. To consider all the stuff that Roland listed in the stated paragraph as "BENEFITS", is most definitely "a backwards" way of looking at things.

My hope is that Africa will change for GOOD in this generation. It is not impossible with GOD ALMIGHTY.

[Brent]

How beautiful that you were able to share your experience returning to the motherland. Thank you